Shetland Islands 2015


Durham to Lerwick - Saturday, 27th June

A bright morning heralded the start of this year's tour. I checked I had everything before waving good-bye.


I arrived ten minutes early for the 8:24 Virgin East Coast train to Aberdeen, the friendly staff kindly let me through the 'wide' gate and instructed me to walk to the very front of the platform ready for the guard's van to pull alongside.


Another passenger arrived with a bike, a student on his way to Edinburgh. A very helpful Virgin East Coast lady walked the entire length of the platform to bring us brown tags to hang on the bikes. I de-bagged the bike ready to load everything on board the train, which arrived on time.

There were no bike hooks in the guard's van. I stood my bike up against the wall first so that the student could put his against it. We were under time pressure and by the time I'd stacked up the panniers, the guard was prompting us to get on the train. He'd kindly put my day bag in the first door vestibule and that's where I got on. This meant a very long walk through most of the train to coach M. I found my place in first class, a double table seat facing forward, very nice.

Complimentary refreshments were served several times during the journey, after Morpeth, Edinburgh and Dundee. Tea, croissant, fruit and yoghurt for breakfast, very civilised. We crossed over the iconic Forth Rail Bridge with the Road Bridge alongside. The new Queensferry Crossing towers were clearly visible.


The line clung to the north shore of the Forth with lovely views across to Edinburgh. The Tay Bridge was undergoing some maintenance as we crossed to Dundee.


Eventually we approached Aberdeen and I started to shorten the distance between me and the bike by picking my way carefully along the carriages. I retrieved the bike and loaded up the bags on the platform before following the throng through the station barrier. The adjacent Union Shopping Centre was busy as I wheeled the bike outside, last time's altercation with a car park barrier deterred me from walking through the shopping mall.

The roads were also busy so I continued to push the bike along the pavement towards the ferry terminal.


I was early, the nice lady at Northlink's check-in desk kindly told me that check in started at 3.00 pm but I couldn't leave my bike in the terminal, not that I was going to. I mooched around the docks and took some photographs. The Hjaltland had had a paint job since my last visit including the prominent 'pointing Magnus' graphic.


After checking in at the little hut, I attached my 'LE' label to the bike and waited on the quayside for my turn to board.


The car park guy eventually radioed the car deck for permission for me to board and I cycled down the ramp and onto the ship. A stevedore pointed to a place to leave the bike at the back on the right, alongside a wooden barrier. He told me that they'd tie it up later.

The Captain announced that the boat was ready for sea and we departed early. I ventured out on deck in the sunshine and took some photographs as we entered open water leaving Aberdeen behind.

The facilities onboard were excellent, although the TV in the cabin was unable to access the on-demand films due to a 'technical' difficulty. The executive cabin came with free access to the Magnus Lounge where complimentary drinks and biscuits were available. This was a Serco invention and was very nice. Later, in the Magnus Lounge I had the steak and vegetable pie special option, peas, carrots and a very acceptable Syrah, all served at the table. Plentiful calories for the ride ahead.

The boat called in at Kirkwall on Orkney at 11.00 pm. It was still light and there was a stunning sunset as we approached the harbour.


The Coastguard towing vessel Herakles was tied alongside the jetty.


I woke up around 4.00 am with the sun streaming through my cabin window. I saw that we were passing an island and with sleepy delayed reaction, realised that it must be Fair Isle. I reached for the camera and snapped away through the window as Fair Isle slipped by in the early sunshine.




I went back to sleep.


Day two