Shetland Islands 2015


Out Skerries to Sandwick - Wednesday, 1st July

The sun doesn't dip far below the horizon at this time of year and was soon back rising into the sky. The sunlight streamed across the water illuminating the tent in a warm glow that prompted an early awakening. I was up before 6am ready to have breakfast, pack up and return to the harbour for the ferry.



My trusty ferry timetable confirmed that the boat was due to depart at 8am for its regular Wednesday two and a half hour crossing to Lerwick. The solar battery was becoming worryingly depleted due to the demands of iPhone and garmin, so I plugged in the solar panel to take advantage of the morning sunlight, more in hope than expectation.

I consumed some more of my newly acquired cornflakes, beans and sausage plus two mugs of tea. The Alpkit cooking equipment was working well, lightweight and effective. This was a most enjoyable breakfast, watching the changing light on Lambda Stack plus the ever active fulmars.

There was an element of some time pressure, so I hurried around clearing and packing before loading the bike and making ready to go. It was still slightly damp underfoot and more than once I had to pull the brakes on and dig in my heels as I descended the hill. I was generally sad to be leaving the island.

I rode the bike on the brief bit of tarmac round to the harbour and rested it against the ferry terminal shed. The ferry was tied up at the pier with its ramp down, being loaded by crane through two deck plates that were folded open to allow access. I had a mooch around the pier.





It was nice to see that European money had been invested in the Islands's economy. The skip that I'd seen being filmed the day before was picked up by fork lift truck and deposited next to the ferry, before being hoisted into the hold.

Two women turned up to watch proceedings. One of them was the island's nurse who was in fact from somewhere in Yorkshire and had taken the job on the island to 'escape'. The other woman talked very highly of their nurse and the general improvement in health services since she'd arrived. As we chatted, we watched the fork lift as it picked up a black BMW and unceremoniously plonked it on the car deck; apparently its suspension had collapsed. The car was ratchet strapped down and looked in a very sorry state indeed.


Eventually the waiting vehicles were driven onto the car deck and I was ushered forward. It wasn't easy to navigate between the cars and the BMW's ratchet straps, but eventually the bike was put behind the firewall again and fastened down with a rope.

It was a very pleasant if blustery crossing and taking photographs was slightly haphazard. The islands became smaller on the horizon.



Eventually the sea state calmed as we entered Bressay Sound and cruised round towards the ferry terminal. I noticed that the 'Ocean Atlantic' had been moved and was anchored in the Sound, presumably to make room for the white ship that was now alongside the pier. As we rounded its bow, you could see that it was a small but perfectly formed cruise ship called the MS Berlin.


It turned out that our ferry used the Bressay terminal in Lerwick and I was soon off and pedalling round to Victoria Pier to have a closer look at the Berlin. I arrived just in time to see the 'Filla' leaving Lerwick and steaming north back up Bressay Sound.


Lerwick was busy, especially compared with my previous visits when I'd arrived early on a Sunday. I didn't really want to hang around in town so navigated my way along the Esplanade and out along the A969 eventually reaching the Tesco roundabout on South Road. I noticed a burger van in the car park so decided to stop for elevenses. This consisted of a sausage sandwich washed down with a cup of tea. JK Mainland Event Catering did me proud.


My route took me alongside some breathtaking coastal scenery with wide open vistas out to sea. I stopped twice on my journey south, first above Fladdabister with views back to Bressay. My second pause was slightly before the turning to Sandwick just passed Mail where the island of Mousa hoved into view.



There was an interpretation board at the Sandwick turning, describing Mousa Sound, Sandayre Pier, Sandlodge Copper Mine and the archaeology of Mousa with its world famous Broch. Turning left, I cruised down the hill towards Sandwick and came to a halt outside the Sandwick Baking Company in the sunshine. I propped the bike up against the wall and went into the shop to buy provisions.


I cycled down to the sea and mooched around an attractive beach at the head of Sand Wick. This was a lovely setting, very quiet and I ate my lunch in a little picnic area whilst contemplating my next step.


The plan was to camp near the Burraland Broch which I'd identified as a likely coastal spot directly opposite Mousa Broch. Finding the correct road from memory was not as simple as I'd first thought and I ended up turning round a few times before I found it. Even then, I went too far up the hill and ended up outside someone's house. I descended back a little way and eventually found the correct route which turned out to be a rough farm track. The views were stunning.


I pushed the bike down the track and the Burraland Broch came into view at the bottom. I wasn't sure exactly where to camp, but noticed a lovely flat area down to the left, a grassy level platform that looked perfect. I found a gate, undid the Gordian knot that held it in place and gained access to a track that ran down the slope. I tied the gate back up and pushed the bike down and onto the field. The sun was very warm as I unpacked and pulled out the tent from the pannier.

The sun was blazing down and sweat was running down my cheeks. I sat down for a breather whilst attempting to take it all in. A truly remarkable place in a sweeping bay with Mousa Broch clearly visible across the Sound and the ruins of Burraland Broch down to the right.




A mooch around revealed a rugged coastline with a deep gorge cut into the rock on the right hand side of the field. It really was too warm to work and the main concern was sun burn. Still, the solar battery was receiving a strong charge. Eventually I got my act together and began to erect the tent, even if it would be far too warm to get in.

To my horror, I realised that the two end tent poles were not on the bike. These carbon rods are too long to fit in the pannier and my technique for carrying them was to attach them to the bike's rear rack using elastic bands. Thinking back, I'd obviously forgotten about them when packing up that morning and they would still be neatly laid on the grass on the Out Skerries.

I hunted around for something to improvise, given that the tent would not be that stable without a solution. The search uncovered some rusty metal wire that had once been part of a fence, but had been replaced long ago by new galvanised wire. I levered off two pieces, straightened them and worked them to what I thought would be the correct length. With orange fingers, I pushed them into position and fastened the guy ropes. The tent was up, but looked slightly floppy, especially at one end. Clearly my estimate of length was a little out.


I went on a short walking expedition to explore the ruined Broch and crofts and marvelled as a flock of gannets flew overhead. The base of the Broch is clearly visible on its raised plinth, but not much else remains. Together with the more complete Mousa Broch across the Sound, these two structures must once have been a formidable sight.


I'd booked to go on the Mousa boat to see the storm petrels that gather around Mousa Broch at dusk. Not expecting a problem, I rang their number to check that the trip was still on that evening and if there was a safe place to leave the bike. Worryingly, the guy said that the weather was due to change so the trip was cancelled, however he expected that it would be ok for the following evening and he'd book me a place.

This came as a slight shock on two counts, firstly it was glorious sunshine with not a cloud in the sky, secondly I'd have to hang around Sandwick for a second day.

I made a meal, settled in for the evening and waited for the storm.


Day six